Best WRC 10 Settings for Thrustmaster TMX / T150

WRC 10 continues to improve on the WRC series. Anyone coming from the earlier titles will feel very comfortable with the driving in this game. The rally stages are probably the best I've seen in a game and are incredibly fun to drive. It plays great with a wheel, but for the Thrustmaster TMX and T150, the default force feedback settings don't give the best first impression. There are far too many forces and vibrations making it difficult to tell what is happening with the car.

Thankfully, the game provides a great deal of customization when it comes to the force feedback settings. I tested every setting until I got the wheel light enough to handle the frequent hairpin corners, yet still with strong forces to provide plenty of information about the car and road surface.

In this guide, we will first look at the settings you need to set in the Thrustmaster Control Panel, if playing on a PC. Then we will look at the in-game settings to improve the force feedback.

Thrustmaster Control Panel Settings

WRC 10 automatically will set the wheel rotation based on the value you set in-game, so you can leave the value in the Thrustmaster Control Panel at the maximum.

Spring is used by WRC 10 to control the Self Centre setting.

Damper is used by WRC 10 to control the Tyre Load setting. I commonly recommend turning the Damper off, but I actually like it on in this game.

BOOST should always be turned off. For an in-depth look as to why, see my BOOST Force Feedback Analysis.

WRC 10 Settings

In Options > Controls > Key Bindings:

These are just the default values. No changes were necessary. You could raise the sensitivity a little bit if you would like the car to turn a little faster when the wheel is centered.

In Options > Controls > Settings:

I like how the WRC series games separate the force feedback from vibrations and has separate overall levels for each type. It makes it easy to keep the same proportions of forces, while raising or lowering the overall strength of each type.

Self Aligning Torque is the main force that tells you what the car is doing. You can turn everything else off and have a very good experience from this force alone.

Tyre Load is a damper effect based on the load on the tires. Setting this too high will make the wheel unnecessarily heavy.

Self Centre is the spring force, which artificially pulls the wheel back to the center. If you use this at all, keep it very low. If you turn this up too high, it will make the wheel feel very heavy, constantly resisting any turn you put in the wheel.

Recentre Force is only used when you reset the car after going off the track. It just puts the wheel back to the center. It has no impact while you are driving.

The vibration forces tell more about the surface of the track, though they are largely canned effects. They need to be turned quite low, or else your wheel will be vibrating constantly.

Tyre Slip vibrates the wheel whenever the car loses traction. If this is too high, it can be very jarring every time you slide the car around a corner or lose control of the car. I don't care for this, so I turn it off.

Engine vibrates the wheel whenever the engine hits the red line. I don't particularly like this, so I have turned it down to the point where you practically can't feel it at all. You could turn this higher if you like the effect.

Suspension, Ground Surface and Collision all work together to give the rumble effects as you drive over bumps, go off the track or hit things on the side of the road.

Conclusion

WRC 10 is an incremental upgrade over WRC 9. It still has the best stage design, even if it continues to lack in the graphics and sound department. Having played the previous entries in the series, I found it easy to jump right into this one without issue. Rally is probably my favorite racing discipline to play and WRC 10 is looking like another great title.

Let me know if you have any comments or questions.